El Mitad del Mundo
Many of my friends whipped out their Lonely Planet Ecuador books and were off to scale mountains this weekend as travelers; I, on the other hand, have been experiencing what it is to be a living resident of Ecuador. So, I dated both sets of my grandparents this weekend. ¿Que chistoso, no?
Friday night I ventured to the historic district (when I say historic I mean like before John Rolfe even thought about hopping on a ship to Jamestown) with the papís of my papí. El Centro is quite beautiful at night. We walked down La Ronda which is the only street in the entire city that goes off the grid and actually curves making a complete circle encompassing La Plaza de Independencia which is intersected by la Calle de las Siete Cruzas which really contains seven grandiose cathedrals. We sat down and chatted with, María, an adorable elderly, indigenous woman from Cuenca who makes beaded jewelry. My papayó bought me a ring that she had just finished stringing, for a dollar mind you; it must have taken all day because it contains a million minuscule beads intricately woven in a web like fashion. Que linda! Otherwise known as how pretty and is pretty much the stalest phrase in Ecuadorian history used to describe everything from a baby’s cute expression to a stylish outfit.
We then encountered one of my Abuelita Lolita’s old childhood friends who happens to own a prestigious artisan shop and café in the heart of the historic nightlife. Her friend Ruth has ancient Ecuadorian weavings, jewelry, and ceramics displayed in massive, 250 year old trees hollowed by indigenous hands and used as communal cooking/serving trays en la selva del Oriente. We sat down and enjoyed a cappuccino and pan de yucca (which is the best potato biscuit you have ever consumed) listening to the music from the streets. When we left my Papayó bought an extra pan de yucca and coffee to go and when we stepped out on the street he graciously stooped down and presented it to the raggedly humble man nestled against the curb with a tin can. As my papayo offered the savory snack, he kissed the man on the cheek and wished upon him many blessings. The sweet hombre stooped in the street was quickly overcome with emotion and I found, in that moment, so was I. In the very next breath my papayó exclaimed, “Chuto (the Ecuadorian term for oops), se me olvidó el azucar.” So I dashed back into the café for some sugar and a spoon. May we always remember to sweeten the lives of those who need a little sugar the most!
Saturday I slept in. Ecuador is in a different time zone, not literally, it is really the same hour as Virginia, but for me, it’s a different time zone. The average weekday commences at 5:30 a.m. (ouch!) and the latest time humanly possible to sleep in is 8:00 a.m. tops, before little Elmo slippers sneak into my room, esconde under the covers, and squeal búscame. After some arroz, pico de gallo y un huevo frito, my mamí, mi hermanita, y yo traveled to a town called, El Mitad del Mundo ( it is exactly the middle of the world) in order to visit my other grandparents.
Bequí asked the Spanish version of are we there yet every two minutes on our journey. We finally arrived and she shrieked for joy as Nana, the family pouch, pounced on her car seat. My grandparents on my mom’s side provided a nice change of scenery. It was refreshing to breathe in the small town air and enter the cramped, cluttered, and humble home. As the delicious fumes from the kitchen engulfed the house, I helped shuck and peal corn on the cob.
Generally speaking, the kitchen is by far my favorite room in the entire house which is slightly absurd since many people of this age have spent little to no time in a kitchen. My love is inspired, most likely, by all the sensory images invoked of the fond memories I have had in my Granny Betty’s kitchen. Abuelita Fabi’s cocina felt so very familiar and could quite possibly be the equator version of my Granny Betty’s with a cluttered refrigerator full of family portraits, ancient utilities which have seen their share of grease stains, something savory simmering on the burner, plants being nursed back to health in the window seal, a colorful table cloth probably picked up on a thrifting adventure, only completed by a depiction of Jesus adorning the wall and a tattered Bible permanently residing on the epicenter of a table which is much too small for the large number of occupants it serves on a daily basis. While shucking corn, I thought of all the mid Sunday morning theological conversations we have shared over the most perfectly brewed cup of coffee; the mid afternoon board games with all my fabulous great aunts; the Wednesday late night snacks and crossword puzzles; the art of cooking as a labor of love without a timer or a recipe; the prayers that are so divinely inspired they bring tears to your eyes; the antediluvian, olive green phone that ring bringing news you’ll never forget; and the eccentric holiday gatherings, as well as, the spontaneous ones that occur just because it’s a natural center of congregation. As I was caught by a moment of nostalgia, I imagined all the memories Abuelita Fabi’s kitchen had seen. We all gathered around the table for a afternoon lunch of fritada which is a traditional Ecuadorian dish; onion, tomato, and cilantro salad; fried plantains; corn on the cob, tostadas (which are half popped popcorn kernels with fried onions); and, of course, rice. Qué rico
In the afternoon, I got to help Bequí ride a bike for the first time! It was really fun experience which truly made me feel like a big sister. There was totally that Mira, mira, I actually did it! moment followed shortly by that crash and burn, wipe-out instant as well. As a glimpse into the day in the life of being a big sister and the interworkings of my precious little sister, here is my pictorial representation of what it is to watch Bequí become acquainted with the idea of sharing:
Let’s share and let cousin, Alejandro, ride the bike for un ratito. Por supuesto, so far so good.
Contemplating the idea of what it actually means to share… here comes the pout. Um, I’m not sure this is as chill as I originally thought you made it sound.
I just realized what sharing is all about. Wait! Wait! I take it back! She's so stinkin’ cute!
Later, we embarked on a touring adventure to discover Rumicucho, ancient ruins left behind by the Incas. We attained a glimpse of Incan military and strategic power in the geographic location of the fort as well as their social hierarchy realized in three increasing levels of structural assembly. Aspects of the Inca’s advanced astrology and sacrificial religious practices were apparent as well.
After our archaeological conquest into the world of the Empire Inciaca, we headed for the towns namesake where I literally stood on the line delineating the middle of the world, 0-0-0 latitude, placing one foot in the northern hemisphere and the other in the southern. It was súper chévere (Ecuadorian code for ridiculously awesome) and super symbolic. My papayó and I then toured an anthropological museum that has interesting displays of Ecuador's indigenous populations and their customs. Papyó help my hand the whole time and was very proud to give me insight into his ancestors history. I am sure our guide was not quite equipped to actually have an Ecuadorian observe her presentation, especially a passionate and astute Ecuadorian history teacher such as my grandpa. He ended up completing her sentences with the names, dates, and demographics she was struggling to remember and he has ingrained in his heart.
So, here is to walking the line or the equator rather and merging two separate worlds!